6 Things I Wish I Knew Before Visiting Argentina

Planning a trip to Argentina? STOP and read this first before proceeding any further!! While traveling through Argentina for 2 weeks I learned a few things that I wish I had known before going. So here are they are for you to read about before you go!

1. You Have to Pay a Reciprocity Fee Online BEFORE You Enter Argentina

As of January 7, 2013 you have to pay your reciprocity fee online before you land in Argentina. Yes, BEFORE. This means you cannot even check-in and board your flight headed to Argentina until you've shown proof of payment (a printed receipt). I found out the hard way when I arrived at the airport and was informed I could not check in until I showed proof of payment. This incident not only taught me that I had to pay this fee ahead of time, but also that the payment site is buggy and goes down at 6am. I also learned that even once I've paid the fee, there's NOTHING open at the airport for me to print my receipt at such an early hour! I did manage to get the situation sorted, but that's a story for another time. Bottom line--pay your fees! You can do that here. This applies to anybody with an U.S., Australian, or Canadian passport. At the time of writing fees are as follows:

• U.S. citizens: US $160 for multiple entry valid for 10 years
• Australian citizens: US $100 for multiple entry valid for 1 year beginning on date of payment
• Canadian citizens: 
• US $75 for one-entry (with exit and re-entry from bordering countries: Bolivia, Uruguay, Brazil, Paraguay, and Chile at no additional cost within three months 
• US $150 for multiple entry valid for 5 years

2. Beware of Pick Pockets

This might be common sense, but there are plenty of pick pockets in Argentina, particularly in Buenos Aires where there are tourists galore! I'm a relatively smart traveler and even I <GASP> got pick pocketed! I was lucky and the guy only found a rotten brown banana in my backpack. Argentina isn't dangerous, but like any situation, whether in the U.S. or abroad, you should practice safe travel habits. A few key tips:

• Carry your backpack in front and never store anything valuable in outside, easily accessible pockets.
• Keep your wallet and cell phone in front pockets--don't carry it in your hand at all.
• Always keep the camera strap on your wrist when taking a picture. It's common for a robber to run by and take the camera right out of your hand as you're taking a picture.
• Though not a pick pocket scenario, do pay attention when paying your taxi driver. You'll pay with a 10 and he'll claim you gave him a 5, then start arguing with you. It's good practice to verbally count the money out in front of him before handing it over.

3. Save Those Coins! They're Rare!

Planning to take public buses? You'll need coins and it's difficult to get change anywhere. So when you come across coins, save them for when you really need it.

  

4. The Not-So-Underground Black Market Exchange Is Legit

For the best exchange rate, bring U.S. dollars and exchange it on the black market. I was hesitant at first, but found that it's relatively easy to do and actually quite common. So common that the black market exchange rate, known as the blue dollar, is printed daily in the Buenos Aires newspaper, El Cronista, and is updated live online! During my trip in November 2013, the government rate was 6 pesos to the U.S. dollar, while the blue dollar value was 9.5 pesos to the dollar. You won't have to look far to find a place to exchange--the money exchangers will approach tourists in the streets. Note: Make all exchanges Monday thru Saturday. Banks are closed on Sunday and even the money exchangers will have left their street posts on Sundays for a day off. 

5. Long Distance Bus Travel is Luxurious

If you plan on traveling long distances, whether in Argentina or to neighboring countries, consider traveling by bus. Not only will you save on a night of lodging, but the buses are super luxurious with fully-reclining seats, personal TV screens, Wi-Fi, full meals, and all the wine you can drink! You also get a discount for purchasing early. I bought my bus tickets through Plataforma10. Use Google Translate if you can't read Spanish.

6. Relax! You're in Argentina!

Everything is slower-paced and things happen later in Argentina. Dinner at 9pm is normal. People tend to run late and go at a slower pace. So while you're in Argentina slow down, relax, and enjoy a glass of Malbec as you wait for the waiter to bring your meal or for the hotel clerk to help you check in. There's no rush! Cheers!

The Argentina Edition: Fútbol Action

Attending a Fútbol match while in Argentina is almost as critical as eating a piece of steak. Your trip just wouldn't be the same without it! 

Luckily, I was able to catch a pretty hot game while I was in Buenos Aires: Boca Jrs. (ranked #5) vs. Lanus (ranked #2) at the Lanus Stadium. 



On game day, the streets were teaming with Lanus fans decked out in the team's colors, carrying large Lanus team flags, and downing hot dogs as they waited to enter the stadium. The surrounding area was guarded with policemen armed and ready with riot shields, helmets, and tactical equipment


Lanus fans came in droves, but the Boca Jrs. fans were missing! Apparently fans died during the games last year. The Fútbol association decided to forbid fans of the visiting team from attending. As a result, the entire visiting section of the stadium was empty. What was shocking was the amount of barbed wire that separated the home team vs. visiting team sections. People weren't kidding when they said that Argentinians take this sport seriously!

Another interesting tidbit? When Lanus scored the fans went bananas!! When Boca Jrs. scored, the stadium was dead silent. Not even a grunt or a "DANG IT!". It was complete silence as if they didn't even acknowledge the fact that Boca Jrs. scored.   

The atmosphere was rambunctious! I don't think I've been to any sporting event with so much energy. Perhaps this clip can give you a sense of what it felt like being there!

The Argentina Edition: Iguazu Falls in a Day!

Iguazu Falls is one of the most beautiful natural wonders of the world and one of my personal favorite sites. It's taller than Niagara and wider than Victoria! The Falls is located on the border between Argentina and Brazil and IT IS BIG! You can spend multiple days there checking out both sides. However, if you have a limited amount of time (or if you're like me and just want to maximize your time in Argentina), this post is dedicated to you! 

In general, the Argentina side will take you at least a full day. The Brazil side should only take 4-6 hours. Rumor has it the Argentina side is better because it has more to offer from the variety of trails to the range of activities. Since I only ventured around the Argentina side I can't confirm this, but if most people are saying this on TripAdvisor then it must be true right? So now you're probably asking: 

Should I visit both sides of Iguaza Falls or just the Argentina side? 

Some things to consider:

1. Are you deeply, madly, in love with waterfalls, hiking, and nature?
   If not, just a day on the Argentina side will give you more than your money’s worth of nature and waterfalls!
2. Are you willing to go through the trouble of acquiring and paying for a Brazil visa?
   At the time of my trip, a Brazilian visa for a US citizen cost $160 USD.
3. Do you want to see the falls from a helicopter?
   You can only do it from the Brazil side.
4. Do you like butterflies and beautiful rainbows or mosquitoes and spiders?
   Brazil side is a breeding ground for mosquitoes, spiders, and other creepy crawlers, while the Argentina side has all the butterflies and rainbows.

For me, a full day on the Argentina side was sufficient. So now on to the important matter:

How can I do Iguazu Argentina in a day on budget? 

Here is a simple 3 step process:

STEP 1: TAKE AN OVERNIGHT BUS FROM BUENOS AIRES TO PUERTO IGUAZU.

Sure, flying is faster, but very few flights will get you into Puerto Iguazu early enough to maximize your day at the falls. The park is open from 8am-6pm and you’ll want as much time as possible if you’re only spending a day there. A bus from Buenos Aires will take approximately 15-20 hours and can get you into Puerto Iguazu as early as 7:00am. This will give you sufficient time to drop your bags off at your hotel/hostel and head straight to Iguazu Falls. 

Why else should you take a bus?

• Savings on a night of lodging 
  Overnight bus = no need to book a room for the night.
• Cheaper than flying
  One way fare from Buenos Aires to Iguazu: Buses ~$100. Airfare ~$250-300.
• Buses in Argentina are luxurious
  At ~$100 each way for the most expensive seats, you can get:
• Fully-reclining seats
• Personal TV screen/audio system
• Wi-Fi
• Full dinner, breakfast and snacks
• Wine
• Champagne and chocolates to top off your evening!
• It’s an experience you should try at least once
  

STEP 2: BUY IGUAZU FALLS BUS TICKETS AT YOUR HOSTEL (OR AT THE IGUAZU BUS TERMINAL) 

Many hostels sell discounted bus and park activity tickets. If you plan on dropping your bags off at your hotel/hostel, inquire about tickets. Otherwise, you can easily purchase roundtrip bus tickets to the falls at the Iguazu bus terminal for AR$70 (~$11 USD). Rio Uruguay bus service departs from Iguazu bus terminal every 20 minutes starting at 7:20am. Sit on the top level of the bus for an open air view. The bus ride will take 20-25 minutes and drops you off at the entrance to the park. 

STEP 3: FOLLOW THIS ROUTE TO SEE ALL THE HIGHLIGHTS

Once you’ve arrived at the park and paid your entry fee (AR$170), follow this efficient route to visit all the “must-see” highlights. 

1. Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat): 2 hours

After you arrive by taxi or bus, pay your entry fee and walk to Central Station. Take 2 short trains to Garganta Station to visit one of the main highlights: Garganta del Diablo—Devil’s Throat. This is one of the most spectacular views and is utterly mesmerizing! 

2. Upper Circuit Trail: ~30-35 minutes

Walk back to Garganta Station and take the train to Cataratas Station in the middle of the park. At this point you have the option to take the Upper Circuit Trail or the Lower Circuit Trail. I recommend doing the Upper Circuit first. This shorter trail offers a gorgeous panoramic view of the falls from above. If you do the Lower Circuit first, you’ll be soaked from the boat ride under the waterfall and will likely be too wet and tired to do the Upper Circuit. 

3. Lower Circuit Trail: ~1-1.5 hours

After finishing the Upper Circuit head back to Cataratas Station and begin the Lower Circuit, which offers views of the falls from below. The circuit itself will take ~1-1.5 hours depending on how often you stop for a photo opp. This does not take into account time for San Martin Island or the boat ride under the falls, which are both must-dos! 

4. San Martin Island: ~1-1.5 hours & Boat Ride Under the Falls: 15 minutes

At the top of a set of stairs heading down to the boats, there will be a ticket booth. Inquire about tickets to San Martin Island and the boat trip under the falls. The last San Martin Island boat departs from the mainland at 3pm (and sometimes even earlier depending on water levels!) so plan accordingly. Be sure to get tickets for both before descending the stairs or you’ll have to hike back up for tickets. I would recommend doing San Martin Island first, then the waterfall boat trip.

• San Martin Island
  Take the free 3 minute boat ride to San Martin Island where you will have access to a nice beach. You can also walk around the island for great views of the surrounding falls. 
  

• Boat Ride Under the Falls
  The Boat for the "Gran Aventura" takes you right under the waterfall. It costs AR$100, no reservation required. You’ll get a life jacket and waterproof bag to put your valuables. Make sure you close that bag tight and get ready to be drenched! The boat ride only lasts about 12 minutes, but it is SO MUCH FUN!

5. Green Trail

Hike back out to Cataratas Station 

where you can change into dry clothes. If you still have energy, take the Green Trail down to Central Station. This is an ecological path where you’ll get to see butterflies, birds, and probably some coatis (a raccoon-like animal that is commonly seen roaming around the park). Don’t feed them. They’ll bite! If you are too tired, then take the train back to Central Station. 

If you still have time and want to see more you can ride the Ecological Jungle Train or visit the Nature Center and take some fun pictures with strangers. There’s also a Full Moon walk offered during the full moon. However, if you are exhausted like I was, head out of the park to the bus lot and take the bus back to Iguazu bus station. Rio Uruguay departs every 20 minutes starting at 7:50am. 

Additional Tips

Pre-book Bus Tickets for a Discount

Bus companies offer discounts for pre-booking so purchase your bus tickets to and from Iguazu early. Visit this site for information on the various classes of seats. At a minimum, you should get the semi-cama, but you might as well spend a little more for the cama suite. It'll be worth it! 

Book Andesmar Buses: They Are More Luxurious

Andesmar buses tend to offer more amenities, tastier food options, and has overall better service.  If available, book your bus tickets with Andesmar.

Stay in Puerto Iguazu Town

Iguazu is a really small town. If you’re only staying for a day, book your lodging in town. This will put you close to the bus terminal and make it easier getting in/out of Puerto Iguazu and to/from the falls.

Staying One Night is Sufficient

There isn’t much else to see or do in Puerto Iguazu town besides Iguazu Falls. Staying one night is more than enough.

Pack Food and Water to Save Time and Money at the Park 

Food options at the park are pricier and not great. There is a restaurant, but that requires time to sit down and order. Bringing your own sustenance will save you both time and money.

Bring Cash

Puerto Iguazu (Argentina side) is cash only!

Wear Comfortable Shoes and Pack a Hat + Sunscreen 

This is a no-brainer: You’ll be doing a lot of walking! Plus it can get very sunny and hot on the Argentina side. 

Wear a Bathing Suit and Pack Flip Flops for the Waterfall Boat Ride

Wear your bathing suit under your clothes or wear clothes you don’t mind getting wet during the waterfall boat ride. Also pack flip flops to wear on the boat ride so your shoes don't get soaked. If you decide to just pack your bathing suit, then change into it at Cataratas Station right before you start the Lower Circuit. There won’t be any other areas along the trail to change.

Pack a Change of Clothes for Post Waterfall Boat Ride

Pack a set of dry clothes to change into after so you won’t be wet on your bus ride back to town.

Eat a Nice Dinner After a Long Day at the Park

You deserve a nice dinner after such a long tiring day! There are some good food options in Puerto Iguazu. AQVA is an amazing restaurant with reasonable prices. It gets pretty packed in the evening so make reservations! 

The Argentina Edition: Top 5 Eats in Buenos Aires

What do I love as much as traveling? EATING! And Argentina has a fair share of great eats. I could probably go on and on about all the foods/restaurants you should try in Argentina, but I'll limit this to just a few of my favorites! 

Empanadas

These delicious stuffed breads/pastries are often filled with meats, cheeses, and veggies then fried or baked. Easy to find anywhere and very wallet-friendly!

Helado

Helado, aka ice cream, in Argentina is a creamy decliousness that has a gelato-type consistency and taste. Not surprising since there's a strong Italian influence in Argentina. The ice cream come in cups, cones, or bowl cones. Heladeria's are open into the whee hours of the evening (i.e.,1 or 2am) and you can even have ice cream delivered to you! I would highly recommend trying Helado from the larger chains such as Freddo or Persicco as well as the smaller shops. Just make sure the sign says "helado artesanal" to get the freshest quality. And be sure to try the Dulce de Leche flavor--it's a staple in Argentina!

Pizza

Yes pizza! It's totally different in Argentina, though maybe not a good "different" for everyone. There's no sauce. It's similar to your Chicago deep dish pizza--a thick piece of dough loaded with a ton of cheese and topped off with various toppings of your choosing. Then the pizza is thrown into a wood oven. Above is the "Kentucky Special" (topped with anchovies, mushrooms, hearts of palm, and sweet roasted peppers) from Pizzeria Kentucky--a 24-hour pizzeria in Buenos Aires. Great for hangovers! Not that I'm saying it from personal experience or anything...

Malbec

What more can I say? Malbecs are my favorite wine and one of the reasons I had been wanting to visit Argentina! Enjoy a glass.. or two. 

 Meat

The meat in Argentina is amazing and you haven't experienced Argentina unless you've had some. It would actually be quite difficult to leave this country without having had any! Their grass-fed cows lend to a very tender, delicious flavor unlike what we get from corn-fed American cattle that are injected with hormones. Parillas (steakhouses) are in abundance and range from high end to simple, no-nonsense restaurants filled with hungry locals. Go try them all!

The Argentina Edition: We Are Tango

There are numerous options when it comes to Tango in Buenos Aires. Do you want to take a lesson then hit up a Milonga (tango dance hall) to show off your newly acquired moves? Or would you rather sit out on the dancing and just watch some professionals do it?  

I chose to go with "We Are Tango", a dinner/show where you get to see a tango performance and take a dance lesson after. You can choose to skip the dinner portion and make reservations for the "show only" option, which is what I did.  

Upon arrival you're greeted with welcome drinks. 

• Option 1: Fernet with coke (I'm sure all my San Francisco friends are quite familiar with Fernet!).
• Option 2: Hesperidina, a minty orange flavored spirit, served with orange juice. 
• Option 3: You can go straight to the free-flowing wines served by Sebastian.

During the evening, you are taken through the history of tango. The music, dances and costumes take you through each era. The overall experience is quite intimate with the dancers a mere few feet away from you and no more than 20 in the audience. There were even a few audience participation portions throughout the show!

At the end of the show, the dancers gave a one-hour lesson to the audience members. This turned out to be quite a sight after all the free flowing booze we had consumed! Overall, a very memorable experience that I would highly recommend.

The Argentina Edition: Top 10 "Must-Do's" in Buenos Aires

Argentina is a pretty large country--the eighth largest in the world to be exact! Needless to say, the diverse range of geographies and activities means Argentina has something to offer to everyone; from the foodies to the adventurers, or the sports fanatics to the party animals. That being said, having just returned from 12 days in Argentina I obviously have a lot to share! So I thought I'd kick off my Argentina-series of posts with a "Top 10 Must-Do's" in Buenos Aires. 

10: Tour the Teatro Colón

The Teatro Colón is among the best operas in the world. It has history and is an icon of Buenos Aires. Though I wasn't able to see an actual show, I took a 50-minute guided tour. The architecture is elegant with all the little intricacies and details in its design.

During your visit, you also get to witness the magnificence of the theater and visit the boxes where the VIPs usually sit--seats that I certainly couldn't afford during a show!

9: Pay Homage to Evita at Recoleta Cemetery

Famous as the necropolis where Evita's tomb lies, this site is a labyrinth of passageways lined with intricate marble mausoleums, intriguing neo-Gothic statues, and plenty of stray cats. Though some recommend spending a few hours here, 30-minutes was sufficient for me. After all--at the end of the day, it is a cemetery. Bonus: free admission!

8: Visit the Plaza del Congreso

One of the largest public squares in Buenos Aires, this plaza is where you can find 1) the Palacio del Congreso, Argentina's national House of Congress which was modeled after the Capitol in Washington, D.C., 2) the third of eight original casts of The Thinker, and 3) dog walkers taking a break and letting their pets frolick in the many fountains that line the plaza. If you want some down time, this is a great spot to relax under a tree, enjoy the scenery, and people watch.

7: Take a Break at Cafe Tortoni
The oldest cafe in the country, Cafe Tortoni boasts a charming atmosphere. With its stained glass skylight, beautiful wood pillars, and waiters adorned in traditional attire, it is no wonder how this venue has been awarded multiple times as one of the most beautiful cafes of the world. Expect to wait in a queue outside of the restaurant and don't expect fast service. Come here to take a break from your day, step into history and appreciate the architecture while enjoying a decadent churros con chocolate (hot chocolate and churros). The churros come out crispy and warm and pair amazingly with the hot chocolate!

6. Dance the Night Away... and Then Keep Dancing After That!

Partying in Buenos Aires takes things to a whole new level and is a test for even the professional party people. The night doesn't begin until 2am and when the sun rises it'll be time for the after-hour parties! You'll be thankful for the Vodka Speeds--they'll help to keep you going! What are the hot spots? In a city like Buenos Aires, what is hot is constantly changing so ask around for recommendations when you get there. 

5. Admire the Artistic Beauty That Fills the City
El Caminito in La Boca is well-known for its brightly painted houses and local artists selling their work. But the artistic beauty that lines the streets of Buenos Aires does not end there. The city is filled with intriguing street art and architectural pieces that will continue to impress as you explore every nook and cranny of the city. I was in constant awe as I wandered and encountered all of this.

4. Wander the Outdoor Markets in Search of Trinkets

Filled with trinkets galore, the outdoor markets become any Treasure Hunter's playground. Fancy an antique phone? Or perhaps handmade leather purses? Maybe you just want a few magnets to bring home. There's something for everyone at these vast markets. And when you need a break, grab a fresh-squeezed orange juice from the juice stall and watch the musical performances as they energize the crowd that has circled around them.

You might even come across a Carlos Gardel impersonator performing in the streets like I did at the Sunday Fair in San Telmo. Speaking of Carlos Gardel...

3. Tango, Tango, Tango!

Carlos Gardel is known as the "father" of tango. The equivalent of Elvis to rock 'n' roll, if you will. You'll see his face everywhere. There's even a subway station named after Mr. Gardel! Tango used to be purely instrumental music and dance used as entertainment for men looking for work during the Great Depression. Carlos Gardel's revolutionized the art by adding lyrics (and his charmingly good looks) to move tango from the underground salons to becoming popular among the upper classes.

There are many ways to experience Tango in Buenos Aires whether you want to see a show, take a lesson, or show off your dance moves at a local Milonga (tango dance hall). If you really get into Tango, there are also plenty of shops to buy your very own tango shoes and costume!

  

2. Engage in the Fútbol Frenzy
When in Argentina, or anywhere in South America for that matter, Fútbol is a must! Fútbol in Argentina is a way of life. The sheer energy and pride in the teams is nothing I have ever experienced. If you're lucky enough to be in town when the Boca Jrs. are playing at La Bombonera stadium I'd highly recommend attending a match. At the very least, take a tour of the stadium and visit the Boca Jrs. museum. Then attend any other match that will fit into your schedule. You won't regret it!

1. A is for Amazing Argentinean Eats

Well known for their tender and flavorful meats from grass-fed animals, Argentina is highly influenced by Europe. This is particularly true of the Italian influence as evidenced by the delicious Gelato-like ice cream as well as the pizza and pastas. I could go on and on about the drool-worthy food in Argentina, but I'll save that for a future post. For now, I'd like to highlight the Argentinean closed-door restaurants. These "restaurants" are run by chefs in undisclosed locations, sometimes in their private homes. Though they initially began as underground eateries (think speakeasy) and were only known to others through word of mouth, they've become a bigger sensation. Now you can email or call the chefs to make reservations at which time they will provide you with the address for your evening in the secret (though not as much of a secret anymore) location! Anyone visiting Argentina should definitely experience this at least once!